under another sun

Through the beautiful countryside to Spanish Point today, the place where some boats from the Armada were lost, and the sailors rounded up and put to death, on the orders of the English. John, driving us about the country uncomplainingly as usual, suggested this undermined the idea of black haired Irish people being descended from the Spanish. Apparently the King of Spain visited the area not too long ago, after a mass grave was found. Then on to Kilkee, where we took another stroll. I didn't fancy the walk up into a treeless, flat land, but happily pottered about on the beach instead. We passed on the way home a golf course owned by Trump, and drove around it by mistake. Home, and a quiet evening. Sue cooked a gorgeous rice and chorizo and chicken dish. There was talk of us going down to the pub, but actually everyone was a bit tired, so we sensibly went to bed instead.  Below  top three snaps of Spanish Point, with the typical west coast flat rocks projecting dangerously int...

John driving us south today, he is a mine of fascinating information and an excellent guide. Loving the landscapes. In the lower lands the few bushes and trees there are shaped by the wind in fields demarked by the low stone walls, and widely spaced cottages. We stopped by an ancient one roomed building. Got out at a beach to have the cobwebs ripped off in shreds from our body by the keen wind. Whiskey rudely sniffed at by two dogs whose owner sat in a white van. Looked at the information about the history of Irish submariners.  Into Ennistymon the town nearest to Sue and John. Gorgeous place with the pubs painted marvellous colours.  We went into two lovely bookshops, Salmon bookshop I think has a poetry press associated with it. I spent some time looking at books there. I had in my mind an anthology of poetry about the West of Ireland, but everything I looked at was very international in its focus. Across the road to another bookshop, where in the poetry section I found a fe...

An excellent night's sleep.  Up in Doolin, and coffee chatting with Sue. Then a quick call, who reported feeling much better this morning. In fact when I talked to her later in the day, she'd popped out to the Waggon this afternoon and saw some of friends there. A leisurely breakfast, and agog at the birdtables -- I've never seen so many goldfinches in my life.   John took us on a long drive up the coast. All kinds of weather as we drove, and the sea in many moods. Much of the drive, on the inland side of the road the limestone pavement of the Burren, which gives the hills almost a mauve look in certain lights. Bare looking rock, gives the place an alien and bleak look, especially when the pavement goes to the sea. We stopped off at Fanore which slightly reminded me of Denmark, with its dunes and marram grass and the wild bluster of the ocean. Gorgeous place. Then along the coast to Galway bay, where stopped at the Flaggy Shore, which features in  Postscript  a Seamu...

A night's sleep, L and I up at seven. Over breakfast we learned about train problems at Gatwick. Final packing. Mum bright and breezy when I called her before we left.   Gatwick by car, arriving in plenty of time. Ryanair to Shannon. A man talking, luckily not to us, non stop in the waiting room, Zero frills, and minimal twitching from me, despite Lorraine and I being on either side of an aisle  and being able to maintain hyper vigilance through a window. Ears hurt on landing. Shannon airport pleasant and no nonsense. We were collected by Sue and John! Great to see them, and to sit next to John driving through the gorgeous west of Ireland. John pointing out tampering with place names on road signs, as there are disputes about how certain place names should be spelled. Finally the Aran islands appeared -- a bit moment as the last time we stayed they were hidden for days, and I said that I did not believe they existed. A lovely sight of three islands layered behind one another i...

Up and clear headed to take a business call at 10:00 this morning. Then another day of fog and damp rolling in from the sea. The cloud was a touch higher today, however, so when we were at sea level down in Doolin past O'Connors and the little river that rushes by it, down to the sea we had an inspiring view of the cliffs, with great Atlantic waves breaking against them. Climb up a few dozen metres and we were in the cloud again. John drove us around lots today, along the coastal road, which is such a weird science fictional place, with the sheets and curves of the limestone rock curving into a wild misty grey sea. Stolid cattle finding scraps to eat here and there, and farmers driving out to see them in jeeps. Along the coast, past tiny broken stone fishermen's cottages, through some villages and we stopped for a drink in a pub by a little harbour. Then we went off to visit Yeats' Tower, Thoor Ballylee, we were the only people there for some of the time. Yeats wrote ab...

A mysterious foggy day in County Clare. John and I drove to the nearby town, Ennistimon, to buy breakfast and food for the day. John pointing out an undertakers which also has a bar in it, which was rather marvellous and made me want to visit it. He drove us down narrow country roads with fields woods and a general Tolkeinesque fog on the barrow downs feel to it. There is a local claim that the Lord of The Rings was inspired by the nearby landscape . I'm certain Tolkien would have loved the landscape here. But the dates don't add up. He had already published the Hobbit in the 1930s Home and a lovely big breakfast, and then John drove us off to explore. We drove to a nearby ruined Church, the landscape is marvellously populated with evocative ruins of old stone houses, enormous stately houses, and churches (added atmosphere with the mist). There is a Lahiff family grave, a photo of that below. Also a Sheela na gig holding herself open invitingly above the ruined church door. ...