A ferry to Izu
Managed to tweak my back this morning, as the hobbling had put it out of sync. This meant that the others had a sort of Frankenstein's Igor thing loping about with them during the day.
We drove off to the coast to catch a ferry to the Izu Peninsular. Hiroko, who can't swim and doesn't like water wailing Oh God this is scary! as we sped over the ramp into the car ferry. But the sea was very calm in the faintly misty morning, and I felt more relaxed than I could remember for as we sat about drinking coffee.
The Izu peninsular is very beautiful and has a distinctly different feel to the area Hiroko lives in. It has big bones - a mountainous interior with a craggy coastline that reminded me of Guernsey but on a much larger scale. And I really like all the rocks and small islands that complicate the shoreline.
Our first stop was at a coffee house owned by a sculptor and his wife who Hiroko knew. The place had spectacular views down the cliff to the sea, and to Fuji-san over the water. In the sky were several tombi, which are black kites, eagle-like birds which are very common in Japan.
The owner showed us a book of press cuttings and photos from an exhibition he'd had in Italy. His wife was very nice too and had some ceramic designs on the walls. A couple next to us were drawn into the conversation, and the man was a retired newspaper editor. This gave me the chance to witness the business card ceremony as Hiroko gave him her card. The retired editor took it in both hands and studied it gravely for some time, and then apologised for not having his cards with him.
Shortly before we left the owner then asked me if I was drunk, as I had a red face. I have a ruddy complexion at the best of times but was a bit coldy and flushed. I was asked this in the evening. Made me wonder if the Japanese simply assumed that I was drunk all the time.
Hiroko's onsen addiction then kicked in, and we sped from stunning view to stunning view with the agenda of finding somewhere to bathe. Eventually after Hiroko had sought directions in a shop (and left her handbag there) we found a suitable onsen. I declined to join them and instead took a walk along by the side of a river and snapped photos. Saw a kingfisher at one point, and generally had fun. Then we met up again and went to the nearby restaurant. One of the features of the meal was the fresh wasabi which you had to grate first. Had a deliciously fresh and mild flavour to the noodles I was eating.
Then off in the car into the mountains for a long drive through twisty roads and over bridges through the forested mountains. We were taking the long route back by car. We stopped at another coffee place much later and there was a girl in a kimono after a coming of age cerimony. We were served the slowest coffee in the entire world. A bit of a frenzied drive home as we were delayed.
Then straight off to the Yoshimura's restaurant bringing me full circle. Here we met Romy's second cousin, who is an architect, and his wife and two cute little girls of four and six. Interesting to see how they tuck into things like scallops which would have quite a few western children balking. The youngest was shyly hiding under the table but after about 15 minutes was running about and demonstrating karate moves. It was a nice meal in one of the special rooms; another low table but I am getting used to them now and lots of excellent sashimi. Also ate some beef intestines on a stick, which were very chewy indeed and got stuck in my teeth which I pulled at desperately when nobody was looking.
Below from the ferry. At Lover's point a small shrine with lots of hearts tied nearby with wishes from lovers. And a fallow paddy field I took while the others were in the onsen.
Managed to tweak my back this morning, as the hobbling had put it out of sync. This meant that the others had a sort of Frankenstein's Igor thing loping about with them during the day.
We drove off to the coast to catch a ferry to the Izu Peninsular. Hiroko, who can't swim and doesn't like water wailing Oh God this is scary! as we sped over the ramp into the car ferry. But the sea was very calm in the faintly misty morning, and I felt more relaxed than I could remember for as we sat about drinking coffee.
The Izu peninsular is very beautiful and has a distinctly different feel to the area Hiroko lives in. It has big bones - a mountainous interior with a craggy coastline that reminded me of Guernsey but on a much larger scale. And I really like all the rocks and small islands that complicate the shoreline.
Our first stop was at a coffee house owned by a sculptor and his wife who Hiroko knew. The place had spectacular views down the cliff to the sea, and to Fuji-san over the water. In the sky were several tombi, which are black kites, eagle-like birds which are very common in Japan.
The owner showed us a book of press cuttings and photos from an exhibition he'd had in Italy. His wife was very nice too and had some ceramic designs on the walls. A couple next to us were drawn into the conversation, and the man was a retired newspaper editor. This gave me the chance to witness the business card ceremony as Hiroko gave him her card. The retired editor took it in both hands and studied it gravely for some time, and then apologised for not having his cards with him.
Shortly before we left the owner then asked me if I was drunk, as I had a red face. I have a ruddy complexion at the best of times but was a bit coldy and flushed. I was asked this in the evening. Made me wonder if the Japanese simply assumed that I was drunk all the time.
Hiroko's onsen addiction then kicked in, and we sped from stunning view to stunning view with the agenda of finding somewhere to bathe. Eventually after Hiroko had sought directions in a shop (and left her handbag there) we found a suitable onsen. I declined to join them and instead took a walk along by the side of a river and snapped photos. Saw a kingfisher at one point, and generally had fun. Then we met up again and went to the nearby restaurant. One of the features of the meal was the fresh wasabi which you had to grate first. Had a deliciously fresh and mild flavour to the noodles I was eating.
Then off in the car into the mountains for a long drive through twisty roads and over bridges through the forested mountains. We were taking the long route back by car. We stopped at another coffee place much later and there was a girl in a kimono after a coming of age cerimony. We were served the slowest coffee in the entire world. A bit of a frenzied drive home as we were delayed.
Then straight off to the Yoshimura's restaurant bringing me full circle. Here we met Romy's second cousin, who is an architect, and his wife and two cute little girls of four and six. Interesting to see how they tuck into things like scallops which would have quite a few western children balking. The youngest was shyly hiding under the table but after about 15 minutes was running about and demonstrating karate moves. It was a nice meal in one of the special rooms; another low table but I am getting used to them now and lots of excellent sashimi. Also ate some beef intestines on a stick, which were very chewy indeed and got stuck in my teeth which I pulled at desperately when nobody was looking.
Then home, and two people were there (one of whom was the suicidal magician, and another female ex-student of Hiroko's) and it all got a bit confusing, as I was trying to print off my boarding pass, and pack and so on. Managed to hang out with them all at the end for a bit, and enjoyed answering the question from Hiroko's ex student what I liked best about Japan, and I said the ladies, which Romy translated for me. Much laughter and the student saying she wasn't married and what exactly was it that I liked about the ladies etc. All good fun. Hiroko, having taken a few cups of shochu barged in and told me her exact age and so on. Not exactly the subtlety you'd expect really!
Then had to retire early to get some shut eye ready for the tomorrow's epic journey.
Then had to retire early to get some shut eye ready for the tomorrow's epic journey.
Below from the ferry. At Lover's point a small shrine with lots of hearts tied nearby with wishes from lovers. And a fallow paddy field I took while the others were in the onsen.
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