under another sun

An excellent night's sleep.  Up in Doolin, and coffee chatting with Sue. Then a quick call, who reported feeling much better this morning. In fact when I talked to her later in the day, she'd popped out to the Waggon this afternoon and saw some of friends there. A leisurely breakfast, and agog at the birdtables -- I've never seen so many goldfinches in my life.   John took us on a long drive up the coast. All kinds of weather as we drove, and the sea in many moods. Much of the drive, on the inland side of the road the limestone pavement of the Burren, which gives the hills almost a mauve look in certain lights. Bare looking rock, gives the place an alien and bleak look, especially when the pavement goes to the sea. We stopped off at Fanore which slightly reminded me of Denmark, with its dunes and marram grass and the wild bluster of the ocean. Gorgeous place. Then along the coast to Galway bay, where stopped at the Flaggy Shore, which features in  Postscript  a Seamu...

Up and clear headed to take a business call at 10:00 this morning. Then another day of fog and damp rolling in from the sea. The cloud was a touch higher today, however, so when we were at sea level down in Doolin past O'Connors and the little river that rushes by it, down to the sea we had an inspiring view of the cliffs, with great Atlantic waves breaking against them. Climb up a few dozen metres and we were in the cloud again. John drove us around lots today, along the coastal road, which is such a weird science fictional place, with the sheets and curves of the limestone rock curving into a wild misty grey sea. Stolid cattle finding scraps to eat here and there, and farmers driving out to see them in jeeps. Along the coast, past tiny broken stone fishermen's cottages, through some villages and we stopped for a drink in a pub by a little harbour. Then we went off to visit Yeats' Tower, Thoor Ballylee, we were the only people there for some of the time. Yeats wrote ab...

A mysterious foggy day in County Clare. John and I drove to the nearby town, Ennistimon, to buy breakfast and food for the day. John pointing out an undertakers which also has a bar in it, which was rather marvellous and made me want to visit it. He drove us down narrow country roads with fields woods and a general Tolkeinesque fog on the barrow downs feel to it. There is a local claim that the Lord of The Rings was inspired by the nearby landscape . I'm certain Tolkien would have loved the landscape here. But the dates don't add up. He had already published the Hobbit in the 1930s Home and a lovely big breakfast, and then John drove us off to explore. We drove to a nearby ruined Church, the landscape is marvellously populated with evocative ruins of old stone houses, enormous stately houses, and churches (added atmosphere with the mist). There is a Lahiff family grave, a photo of that below. Also a Sheela na gig holding herself open invitingly above the ruined church door. ...