Of snow and eel intestines
My cold somewhat abated, I got up just before dawn and opened the curtains, then climbed back into bed to watch the falling snow. Kyoto is bordered on three sides with mountains and gets very wintery.
Met Toby Romy and Hiroko and we set off in the cold to a nearby Starbucks which overlooked the snowy river, and was a wonderful place to enjoy hot cofee. Toby busy saying it was the world`s best Starbucks and he is probably right. Thus fortified we went back to the hotel to pack. Popped out then to a particularly lovely shop to look again at its prints and brushes and expensive pottery.
Then after settling-up at the hotel, we taxied to our final temple. Sanjusangen-do was unheated and freezing. Inside was a structure like a long wooden football terrace, with 1000 life size sculptures of the Buddhist deity called Kannon. They flank one enormous seated deity. Spaced between them are a 28 other deities representing thunder, wind and other forces of nature. The sculptures were made in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. Quite intimidating to be stared at by such ranks of sculptures, and Toby pointed out it would be a very creepy place to be alone in at night.
We then went to the shinkansen station, buying bento boxes full of goodies to eat on the train, apparently a very Japanese experience. It was snowing quite heavily as we zoomed in comfort from Kyoto - a total white out at one point. But after half an hour or so travelling north the snow had given out, and by the time we reached Hiroko's city of Makinohara in her car, it was a crystal clear sunny day.
It allowed us beautiful views of Mount Fuju, or Fuji-san, as they call it here respectfully. No wonder it dominates Japanese consiousness so much. As Japan's tallest mountain, and in it`s most populated region, it`s snowy volcanic peak is visible to many millions and is wonderfully proportioned.
Much needed napping in the afternoon (as I seem to be suffering from some sort of narcolepsy). In the evening off to the counterbar owned by the Yoshimuras again. This time joined by some classmates of Hiroko's brother. One of whom Sizuki-san was so drunk, having been at a funeral all day, that he fell off the platform we were eating from twice, the second time taking Hiroko with him. This recieved with general good humour and laughter all round. Loads of interesting food. Mr Sizuki has promised to take us on a trip, and was impressed with our enjoyment of Japan.
One delicacy Hiroko encouraged me to eat was fried eel intestines, which tasted rather like liver. Not a dish I will be hurrying to repeat. Everything else however lovely. Lots of beer and sake and generally a good night had by all.
My cold somewhat abated, I got up just before dawn and opened the curtains, then climbed back into bed to watch the falling snow. Kyoto is bordered on three sides with mountains and gets very wintery.
Met Toby Romy and Hiroko and we set off in the cold to a nearby Starbucks which overlooked the snowy river, and was a wonderful place to enjoy hot cofee. Toby busy saying it was the world`s best Starbucks and he is probably right. Thus fortified we went back to the hotel to pack. Popped out then to a particularly lovely shop to look again at its prints and brushes and expensive pottery.
Then after settling-up at the hotel, we taxied to our final temple. Sanjusangen-do was unheated and freezing. Inside was a structure like a long wooden football terrace, with 1000 life size sculptures of the Buddhist deity called Kannon. They flank one enormous seated deity. Spaced between them are a 28 other deities representing thunder, wind and other forces of nature. The sculptures were made in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. Quite intimidating to be stared at by such ranks of sculptures, and Toby pointed out it would be a very creepy place to be alone in at night.
We then went to the shinkansen station, buying bento boxes full of goodies to eat on the train, apparently a very Japanese experience. It was snowing quite heavily as we zoomed in comfort from Kyoto - a total white out at one point. But after half an hour or so travelling north the snow had given out, and by the time we reached Hiroko's city of Makinohara in her car, it was a crystal clear sunny day.
It allowed us beautiful views of Mount Fuju, or Fuji-san, as they call it here respectfully. No wonder it dominates Japanese consiousness so much. As Japan's tallest mountain, and in it`s most populated region, it`s snowy volcanic peak is visible to many millions and is wonderfully proportioned.
Much needed napping in the afternoon (as I seem to be suffering from some sort of narcolepsy). In the evening off to the counterbar owned by the Yoshimuras again. This time joined by some classmates of Hiroko's brother. One of whom Sizuki-san was so drunk, having been at a funeral all day, that he fell off the platform we were eating from twice, the second time taking Hiroko with him. This recieved with general good humour and laughter all round. Loads of interesting food. Mr Sizuki has promised to take us on a trip, and was impressed with our enjoyment of Japan.
One delicacy Hiroko encouraged me to eat was fried eel intestines, which tasted rather like liver. Not a dish I will be hurrying to repeat. Everything else however lovely. Lots of beer and sake and generally a good night had by all.
Below the 1001 statues at Sanjusangen-do (nicked from the internet as you can't take photos in the temple). A meal with the classmates. Clockwise from bottom left: Jennifer; Hiroko; Mr Suzuki (shortly before falling off the platform); a classmate of Hiroko's brother and his future son in law; Glamourous classmate; Toby and Romy.
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